Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Wellington cafes

Cafés, cafés, cafés – there are cafés on every corner in Wellington, and quite a few half way down the street as well. How can so few citizens drink so much coffee? How can the cafés all generate enough business to stay in business? I am afraid I don’t have the answer to these and other questions of universal significance.
Wellingtonians do like their coffees – and their coffee breaks. This morning at about 11.30 we stopped for a cup in The Bach near Island Bay. The Unique Selling Point here is that they have sightings of killer whales 100 metres in front of their property (twice this year already). You also have the sounds and smell of the sea and views of the craggy coast and of South Island in the distance. And in the middle of the morning, on a weekday, it was busy. With lots of men of working age. Some of them possibly having a work related conversation – but others maybe indulging in the serious business of the morning coffee break. In the heart of the business district it would be the same picture. And of course they all do baked goods and sometimes meals as well. And they normally have magazines and the daily paper available.
I'm no judge of coffee. Nice and milky is my style. So have have to use other criteria when making recommendations.
Difficult to pick just one in the City – but maybe Pandoro’s near Te Papa on account of the French bakery and patisserie (stock up on their 5 grain sourdough while you are there). There is something very comforting about being able to peer into the actual bakery, beyond the counter. In Newtown the Recovery Rooms opposite the hospital is good – and has an adventurous menu. There is a little French one further up the road as well, with nice patisserie and bread. Both good for buying treats for hospital patients. (Even I can say that the coffee in the new Wishbone cafe in the hospital is best avoided. The Fuel coffee bar is better.)
And out of town – apart from the Bach with its tantalising possibility of Orca sightings – the Maranui in Lyall Bay wins the overall prize on the grounds of its fantastic breakfasts. The view is pretty good as well (the bay and the airport) and so is the building. Try the veggie breakfast - it lasts all day. A lifetime high I’d say. Or for something lighter, their two substantial rounds of grainy toast with avocados and tomatoes (a kiwi classic this).
And if you are a visitor to NZ you have to learn what to ask for. A "latte" will usually have quite a lot of foam. A “flat white” less. If you want skimmed milk you have to ask for “trim”. So I take a deep breath – I have to take a run at it - “A large, half-strength trim flat white please”.

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