Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The city centre meets the sea


One of the reasons Wellington is a gem of a capital city is its city centre sea front.
Many formerly proud maritime cities have “developed” their waterfronts in the years since container ports rendered their local docks redundant. “Developed” in this context has meant replacing rusting cranes with apartment blocks, hotels and marinas for yuppies and bankers and “retail outlets” with fast food restaurants for the rest of us. These buildings tend to be crammed as near to the water as possible, leaving little or no space for actually enjoying the sea front . We can all think of a list of examples. A classic use of “brown field sites” you might argue. And it has no doubt been highly profitable for investors and developers.
But Wellington has done it differently. As you walk around the harbour, notice how much car- free public space there is. Yes, there are a few restaurants and a marina. And of course there are cafes (you’re in Wellington - you are never very far from a cafe!) but there are also playgrounds, seating areas, a public swimming pool, a bridge that is also a work of art, leading into the city square and gallery, wind sculptures, poems about the wind (what else?) and plenty of space for walkers, joggers, buggy pushers and skate boarders to coexist. And just open space. Enough to hold large outdoor events. You can hire a kayak, a helicopter, a pedalo or one of those four seater cycles. You can jump in the water and go swimming, if you dare, and nobody will tell you off. Or you can just linger with your lunchtime sandwich and enjoy the view - with possible sightings of sting rays, seals or gannets. And of course there is also the huge Te Papa (Our Place) National Museum – with a sheltering arm of native trees and shrubs wrapped around it – taking pride of place.
I particularly like this park (see pic). I know not everyone does – but I am a fan. It is a series of geometrically shaped areas in which native plants such as flaxes, sedges and tussock grasses are planted in blocks. At the harbour end it is an artificial wetland – complete with a sloping beach – a favourite resting place for mallard and gulls – which allows the high tide to flow into the park, and a small way into the city, providing a welcome break between the high wharf edges on both sides.
Well done Wellington is what I say, your sea front should be the envy of the world.

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